September 2018, an extremely difficult time for trekking in Uttarakhand, with the local interpretation of a high court ruling to refuse all trekking permits. Treks are cancelled throughout Uttarakhand and trekkers are moved to treks in other Indian States.
So I have about a week before I leave Australia, and still not sure if my trek to Auden's Col will actually happen? Already I have requested that the trek go ahead with only 1 person, as everyone else has cancelled or moved to another trek. After numerous emails and phone calls the trek is to go ahead. On stopover in Kuala Lumpur yet another hurdle, a new ruling on a medical certificate to be completed by everyone on the trek. A doctor is found, and the certificate scanned.
Great to be back in India, and in Haridwar again after many years. Lovely taxi ride through changing landscapes to Gangotri. Only the lower sentinels visible, with the snow peaks shrouded in mist, due to the ongoing rain. Huddles of pilgrims in plastic coats keeping dry in the relatively small number of Gangotri eateries. Trekkers waiting eagerly for the rain to clear, hoping they can begin before time runs out. Another snag, the local authorities are not issuing any permits for several days due to the rain, and danger on the trekking routes.
I meet my trek leader Lalit, a competent young man from Delhi, and my guide cum cook Kamal. I also meet the 4 porters who will be bringing all the food, bedding, tents and kitchen gear on our expedition. I spend 3 days in Gangotri, going out for short walks in the rain, and returing to my lodging to dry out my gear.
Finally clear skies, and we set off, with views of Gangotri III along the way to Nala camp. I walk a little higher from the camp and receive a view of Jogin III, that looks like a sharks fin from that angle. We set up camp, and Kamal gets to work. Kamal, the master at the helm, creating delicious food in spartan conditions.
