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Highlights of Gaumukh Tapovan Trek

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Highlights of Gaumukh Tapovan Trek

Written by

Aparna Rastogi

16 Jul 2024

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It's not every day that you get to say you walked through forests, dust and glaciers to get to the source of the fiery Ganga and climbed through vertical boulders to reach the crown of spirituality. But if you are on the Gaumukh Tapovan Trek, possibly the oldest trail in the mountains in India, you can definitely make this claim.

The air on this trail which seems to be as old as time itself carries in it a lot of stories, wise words of sages from yesteryears, the many spirits from our epic tales and a lot of calm. Going on this trek is going to the source of the river Ganga but it is also going back to the source of a lot of our beliefs as a people.

While there is a lot to be said about this soul-stirring trek, we will stick to the broad highlights that are some of our most favourite on this trail.

1. Gangotri Glacier Is a Sheer Work of Art

As soon as you lay eyes on the gigantic Gangotri Glacier, you know it is a work of art! Tall, wide, noisy and imposing, this massive chunk of bright blue ice is a glaring image of what the world would have looked like in the Ice Ages. THIRTY kilometres long, as high as a metropolitan skyscraper and constantly shedding the many wart-like rocks on its face with a bang and a splash in the flowing river below, the glacier has a strong personality. The deep cracks on its face reveal the luminescent blue inside that is the actual colour of the glacier. On its face, you can see the continuous line of indentations made by the force of the wind as if someone carved them out using a massive melon-baller scoop.

Image by Neeti Singhal

Right from its belly flows the Bhagirathi River, somehow starting out with a strong flow as it is being birthed by the glacier. As the glacier rumbles and grumbles with deafening sounds, the river gurgles and thunders below. The glacier is changing every day, recoiling into itself – becoming smaller with each passing year like an aging lump of flesh. I cannot believe how much it has changed from when I first witnessed it a decade ago to now. The transformation itself is awe-inspiring to look at. The entire scenery as you stand before it can stir things up inside you and also put you in a state of calm all at the same time.

2. Gaumukh: The Mouth of the Cow That Birthed a River

At the foot of the Bhagirathi mountains, from the snout of Gangotri Glacier, Bhagirathi is seen gushing out from a small cave-like structure shaped like a cow’s mouth. Hence the name Gaumukh – Gau meaning cow, mukh meaning mouth. If you see pictures of the glacier from even a few years ago, you would see how apt the name Gaumukh is for its uncanny resemblance to a cow’s mouth. Now, with the glacier inching away and undergoing constant change, the name may not mean much. Even so, watching the birth of a river is a phenomenon much bigger than our own existence. Even if you may not be spiritually inclined, in the aura of this place, you will find yourself moving in that direction! This place is like the meeting point of all the strength of the natural elements. You are bound to feel small when you stand in front of giants like the Gangotri Glacier, Bhagirathi sisters, Shivling and the river itself carrying the force of these stationary giants into the world.

If you have ever wondered, ‘where do rivers come from’, here is one place you will have your answer!

Image by Neeti Singhal

3. Gliding Over the River in a Makeshift Trolley

Previously, we would cross the Bhagirathi River from over the Gangotri Glacier – back when it was still robust. Now the route to approach the glacier from Bhojwasa is broken – restricting direct access to the glacier. Due to this, we now have to cross the river straight from the Bhojwasa campsite. That isn’t the surprising bit – the fascinating thing about this is how this gushing force of nature is crossed.

(Gaumukh Tapovan Trek: Who Is It Meant For?)

It is crossed in a rickety make-shift trolley with a manual pulley system – so if there isn’t anyone on the other side to pull you there, you might be spending your day stuck mid-air with the racing river just below you and the cold mountain air swinging your ride in all directions. This crude apparatus which is used as public transport to get from one side to the other looks like it could give way at any point. This iron bucket, smaller than a modern office cubicle, transports as many as 5-6 trekkers crammed in that small space in one go. Also, because each round back and forth takes close to 10 mins and the man force of a dozen, going across the river is a slow process. You will sometimes find yourself waiting in line for as long as two hours for your turn at this joy-ride!

Image by Neeti Singhal

It is quite an experience. I don’t know about you, but I definitely see this as one of the highpoints of the trek – after all it is these unique experiences that make one outdoor experience different from the other, no?!

4. The Dramatic Transformation of the Terrain

From the pious town of Gangotri to the magical forests of Himalayan Birch and Pine to the glacial rumble at Gaumukh and standing in the tall shadow of Mt Shivling at Tapovan, the Gaumukh Tapovan trek takes you from one highpoint to the next all through the 8 long days of this journey. Whether you like the closed canopy of a forest or a wide-open sky above your head, this trek is the answer to your outdoor itch. It gives you lush green to soothe your eyes, all the shades and shapes of rocks, vertically placed boulders on a vertical climb and the open grasslands of Tapovan with you standing face to face with some powerful members of the mountain society! Every day on this trek needs a different gait. So, if you are undecided about the kind of landscape that entices you and you’d rather have a little bit of everything, this trek is for you.

Image by Neeti Singhal

Tapovan: The Meadows of Spiritual Practice

What do you get up at 4,400M? The sages who live at Tapovan all year round might say ‘peace’ and you would hardly be able to disagree. Beyond a sea of dry boulders, the vast meadow of Tapovan filled with colourful wildflowers unveils itself like a secret world you couldn’t believe existed. Surrounded by the giants in the Gangotri range of mountains, this unbelievable high-altitude garden only evokes a sense of awe.

Image by Neeti Singhal

Bhagirathi I, II and III to your left, Shivling right in front, the source of Ganga behind you and the glacial Aakash Ganga flowing by your feet – the meadows of Tapovan are worth every breath it takes to get there. Watch the character of the landscape change from dawn to dusk and into the night – we challenge you to find a campsite better than this one!

6. A Sage-Old Trail?

Because Gaumukh holds a religious significance, this trail has seen pilgrims and devotees for centuries together. I remember my grandparents telling me about their journey to these parts of Himalayas. Even the meadows of Tapovan with the strong presence of Shivling (which is considered an important force in Hindu religion) has given space and energy to sages for centuries – men on their quest for spirituality and higher ascension have seen this place as their teacher. It still remains home to those who seek enlightenment – some of who you are sure to meet some on your journey here as well.

Image by Neeti Singhal

I believe it is safe to say that Gaumukh Tapovan may well be the oldest trail in the region. It drew people who got here with the sheer power of faith – no tents, no gears, no first-aid, carrying their own chullas and ration on their backs, their children in tow just to feel the energy of this magnificent place.

Coming to this trail gives a whole new meaning to walking in the footsteps of your ancestors.

(Read: Gaumukh Tapovan Trek: Who is it Meant For?)

7. Morning Light on Shivling, Meru & The Bhagirathi Massif

This trek introduces you to all the major peaks in the Gangotri range but there are some that stand out. The three Bhagirathi sisters standing side by side as a range in themselves is quite a display. Watching their crown sizzle come daybreak and sundown is a whole different kind of spectacle. Your loyal companion on the Gaumukh Tapovan trek is the Bhagirathi massif which stays by your side all throughout. But the star of the show is most definitely the Indian Matterhorn, Mt. Shivling. As soon as it makes an appearance at the end of the trail, all eyes are on this gorgeous peak that exudes a sense of strength and calm all at the same time.

Image by Neeti Singhal

The meadows of Tapovan form the ground on which stands Mt. Shivling, all 6,543M of it. There isn’t a mountain more photogenic than this beauty. And you wouldn’t get a better view of Shivling from anywhere else other than from Tapovan. Next to Shivling, stands Meru, also known as Shark’s Fin, for its very distinctive shape. To watch the sun play with these peaks is a show which is a class apart.