Manali-Leh-Khardung La Cycling Expedition: Freedom at Every Turn in the Himalayas

It was my first time cycling in the Himalayas. In fact I had never even cycled long distances in the plains. My cycling experience prior to this was limited to cycling around in the area where I grew up. So of course cycling the Manali-Leh highway seemed like a herculean task but I was in for some adventure and pushing my limits. With so many doubts about my ability to cycle in the mountains, I began prepping for the expedition. Little did I know then that I would fall in love with mountain bikes and cycling as an adventure sport. 

I reached Manali a little before the others to get a hang of using a geared cycle and the technique required to cycle in the mountains. A few days later, a little into the briefing session, I was intimidated by the kind of experience the other participants held. They were all marathon runners, participated in triathlons and fitness events on a regular basis. Then there was me, who did not even know how to use a geared cycle before I reached Manali. However, contrary to what I believed, it did not take too long for me to learn the skills and techniques that would help me during the expedition. I would take the cycle out for a spin in the evenings through the woods of Manali. The ups would test my physical endurance and make me wonder if I made the right decision, but as I would reach the roads that wind down, I would enjoy every minute of it and forget the throbbing pain in my thighs. I started enjoying the activity before the expedition began and I knew it was going to be an adventure of a lifetime, something that I would remember very fondly in the years to come.

The expedition began on a rainy morning with thick cloud cover above us. There’s something about the rain that has always made me feel damp, not just physically but also mentally. This time I was not sure if it was the rain or the fact that I had to cycle close to 500 kms in really difficult terrain and at extremely high altitude for the next ten days. This was no more a fun ride around the woods of Manali but a long adventure to Ladakh. These heavy thoughts that preoccupied my mind vanished in the snap of a finger as soon as I got on my mountain bike and started my journey towards Leh. I was pumped with the idea that I am attempting something outside of my comfort zone and exploring parts of the country that I have not seen before.

The excitement for the adventure ahead did not make it any easier. I heard so much about the difficulty of the expedition and the terrain did not fail to live up to the hearsay. The uphill climbs required every bit of energy and strength I could garner. On a particular day, as we were making our way up to Rohtang Pass, I fully realised the level of endurance it takes to cycle above 3500 M. While the ascent seemed gradual, the lack of oxygen in the air made me stop after every 100-200m. I had promised myself that I am going to make it all the way up to Rohtang top. After a tough 16 km ascent, I was there, beaming with pride that this was only possible with the sheer strength of my mind and body, and without any prior experience.

As satisfying as it was to make it to the top of these high mountain passes, what I really enjoyed were the descents that followed. There was this feeling of absolute freedom as I made my way down these winding roads, with mountain ranges that refused to leave my side. I might sound like a hopeless romantic but I never felt more alive. The thrill I felt as I glided on my mountain bike with the air gushing through is almost inexplicable and is probably the moment that made me fall in love with the mountains and their grandiosity.

While I had heard so much about the beauty of this region, nothing could prepare me for the dramatic landscapes that were coming my way. More than Khardung La or Leh, the entire stretch of the Manali-Leh highway was a spectacle that I had not witnessed before. You know what they say, the journey matters more than the destination. And it did. The cold-desert sceneries were almost as if I was zooming through my mountain bike on another planet. I would stare at the mountains that surrounded me in awe, like a child staring at something fascinating with their jaw dropped down. The landscapes that the route offered made me realise that there was probably no better way to experience this highway than to cycle through it. Not only was there an element of adventure to it but also the opportunity to soak in the landscapes at my own pace.

As difficult as the route was, it was also doubly rewarding with views that left me speechless and grandiosity that humbled me. This dry region of the Himalayas is probably on the list of the most beautiful places I’ve visited. The patterns, the colours, and the natural formations left an impression on me which other parts of the Himalayas did not manage. All this with the combination of being on a mountain bike for ten days is probably what made me like the route even more. Will I like it as much as I did if I travelled this route in a car? Maybe not. But that does not take away from what the roads up there have to offer.

The Manali-Leh-Khardung La expedition ignited a new passion for cycling in me. It was an adventure sport I had not tried before and walked into it with second thoughts about my decision. But now, I’m really looking forward to doing more cycling expeditions, this time maybe in the plains, along coastal routes in air filled with moisture from the sea breeze.